Walthamstow’s first food festival

Appetite Food Festival 2013

Appetite Food Festival 2013

We’re really excited to be associated with Waltham Forest’s first food festival which kicks off in June. The Appetite Food Festival will be opened by Gennaro Contaldo, celebrity TV chef of Two Greedy Italians and Jamie Oliver’s mentor, on 1 June in Walthamstow’s Town Square.

If you haven’t seen the newspaper-style programme check it out – there are all sorts of foodie events including supperclubs, a tudor feast, pop-up poetry cafe, fairytale tea parties, edible bugs, real ale festival, gourmet food fair, food walks and a food trail.  Events prices  vary and many are free to attend; some require booking while others are drop-in. We want to mention a couple of our  friends – ‘Ecuadorian Delights’ offering an insight into Ecuadorian culture and cuisine and ‘Cocomero – pop up cafe’ promising real Italian street food.

We’re joining in with the Walthamstowfoodies Supperclub, opening up our house on four consecutive Saturdays – 8, 15, 22 and 29 June. We’ve had loads of interest and bookings so have extended our capacity – basically by getting another table from the loft! Usually we just cater for six as this keeps it managable and fun, but I’m sure even with the bigger groups we’ll all have a great evening. We’re really looking forward to it and have been testing and re-testing all our recipes; especially as we’ve had the unexpected challenge of lots of vegetarian diners, so we’ve been exploring more veggie cuisine options. Check out the Supperclub page for an idea of the menu (we like to keep it secret) and more info, you are very welcome to join us.

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Amazing array of fresh veg!

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Handmade Croatian skampi ravioli with buzara sauce

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Pina making pasta rolling look easy!

While in Croatia we spent a couple of fun packed days with EatIstria who introduced us to some of the food specialities of the region including visits to various wine producers – it was a delight (more on the wine in a later post).

We spent a day foraging for wild herbs and asparagus, then cooking a variety of fish dishes, including an initiation into the art of fresh pasta making. Pina made pasta making seem simple and effortless.

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Basic egg pasta dough cut into tagliatelle and fuzi

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Pina cutting rezanci

There are specific types of pasta that can be identified as being ‘Croatian’. There’s ‘Fuzi’ from Istria which are little squares rolled into tubes, ‘Njoki’ – potato gnocchi often served with goulash meat stews,  the sweet baked ‘strukli’ pasta from Zagreb, ‘Pljukanci’ small hand rolled thin dumplings and ‘Rezanci’ super fine noodles, traditionally hand cut.

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Fantastic stuffed nettle and mushroom fuzi (Konoba Vrh, Croatia)

So, once home, we couldn’t wait to have a go at making Croatian-style pasta, but of course we had to add our own twist. We decided to make a ravioli based on the popular Croatian Skampi (prawn) Buzara dish. We were bought an authentic Italian pasta machine a few years ago but it’s not really done much hard work – so it was time to dig around under the stairs, drag it out and put us and it to the test!

Here’s our version: Croatian Skampi filled ravioli with a tomato buzara sauce.

You need:

Pasta:

  • 150g Italian ’00′ pasta flour
  • 2 medium eggs, 1 whole and 1 yolk

Ravioli filling:

  • 150g raw prawns (remove the heads and shells)
  • 2 tablespoons fish stock or white wine
  • 1 egg white
  • Salt and black pepper

Sauce:

  • 400g tomatoes, peeled and chopped
  • 350g raw prawns (remove the heads and shells)
  • 1 small onion, roughly chopped
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 500ml fish stock

Method:

Stock: fry the prawn shells with a chopped carrot and onion for a few minutes, then add 600ml of hot water and simmer gently for 30mins to make a fish stock. You can use a ready made stock, but this is more resourceful and tastier.

Pasta: mix all the ingredients together by hand in a large bowl or in a food processor with the normal blade. It’s a slow process, the dough will feel too dry and it’s tempting to add water to help it along, but this will weaken the structure of the dough and result in a sloppy pasta that won’t hold the ravioli filling. Stick with it and eventually the dough will become more firm. Once it forms a smooth ball, wrap it in cling film and leave to rest in the fridge for 30 mins to an hour while you get on with making the filling and buzara sauce for the ravioli.

Filling: remove the prawns from their shells. Pan fry for a few minutes in the fish stock or wine until cooked through. Leave to cool, then put them in the food processor with all the filling ingredients and whiz until smooth. Moist rather than wet is the consistency you need. Cover and set aside.

Sauce: heat the oil in a heavy saucepan and fry the onion until it starts to brown. Add the garlic and cook for another 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes, bay leaf and the stock and simmer for 20 minutes. Season to taste. Set the sauce aside.

Now the fun begins …

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Our ‘still like new’ pasta machine

Roll out the pasta dough using a pasta machine working through the roller settings until it is as thin as you dare.

Next lay the long thin pasta sheet out on a floured work surface. Add a teaspoon of skampi filling at regular intervals along half of the pasta sheet.

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Add the filling…

And then fold the other half of the pasta sheet over, press firmly together around each mound filling to make sure you have squeezed out all the air and ensure a good seal. Using a ravioli stamp cut out your ravioli, making sure the edges are sealed.

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Hand cut ravioli

Lay out the ravioli on a baking sheet dusting with fine cornmeal whilst you repeat the process until you’ve used all your pasta or filling.

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The finished skampi ravioli

Boil the ravioli in a large pan of salted water for 3-4 minutes until they float to the surface, the prawn filling should be pink and still juicy.

Scoop out the ravioli, and serve with the hot buzara sauce. This makes a delicious light lunch or dinner … you’ll devour the lot in minutes after all that work!

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Croatian Skampi ravioli with Buzara sauce

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Street food in Walthamstow – Peppe’s Pizza

Amazing mobile wood-fired oven

Amazing mobile wood-fired oven

If you follow our blog you will know that the Walthamstowfoodies have no business even sniffing around a pizza due to various allergies and intolerances. But at the end of the day we do love an authentic, wood-fired pizza. Warm fresh bread topped with hot tomatoes, garlic and cheese – what is there not to like?

In the Stow we are lucky to have Peppe’s Pizza, a mobile wood-fired pizza stall which parks outside the Rose & Crown pub on Hoe Street on Wednesday and Friday evenings from 7pm. A stonebaked pizza is often a highlight for us at the end of a long week. Peppe has a good selection of classic pizzas from £5 and then some real gourmet choices at £8  for a large, handmade, authentic Italian pizza. A favourite of mine is asparagus, artichoke, speck ham, parmagianno and truffle oil.

Fresh ingredients

Fresh ingredients

Be warned this is not fast food – in fact this is slow food at it’s best. He gets extremely busy and it is not unknown to have to wait over 45 mins, but you can have a beer in the pub whilst you wait. Then it’s time to race off home and wolf down hot pizza slices with well thought out toppings, and comforting melted cheesiness. This is my Monday morning gift to the Stow, pop it in the diary - a perfect Friday night treat.

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Mamma Reggario pizza

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Istrian traditional dishes – eating out in Pula and beyond

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Grilled pork in lepinja flat bread – simple but amazing (Bistro Odisej)

With its Italian, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian influences, Istrian food has rich culinary traditions which are passed down through each generation. Istria, in the north of Croatia, is already hailed as the new Tuscany for foodie travellers. With a bit of adventurous exploration it offers the chance to try specialities that are  so local their provenance is tied to one small mountain village or just one particular restaurant.

In Istria, foraging for wild asparagus and herbs is considered a local pastime, people make delicious sparkling wine in their garage as a hobby and everyone seems to have an allotment patch in even the tiniest garden or balcony. People understand local ingredients, appreciate the seasons, delight in their olive oils and proudly protect their Grandmother’s recipes in the same way the Italians are famed for.

Pasta is glaringly missing from this cantor through our favourite Istrian dishes and suggested places to try them, but rest-assured this will be covered in a post all to itself!

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Prsut on the market in Pula

Pršut, olives and cheese - Istrian pršut is a dried ham, similar to Italian prosciutto or Spanish Iberico jamon. The pork leg is skinned, salted, peppered and left to dry for about a year in the cold northerly Bora wind. It is hand cut and served with sheep’s cheese and olives as a prized starter in konobas (taverns) throughout Istria.

  • Recommend: Kantina, Flanaticka 16, Pula – city centre restaurant near the green market serving traditional Istrian dishes.
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Prsut and cheese platter (Kantina)

Truffles – Istria is world famous for the highly prized black and white truffles. They have an amazing strong flavour and add depth and luxurious richness to risottos, handmade creamy pasta dishes, sauces served with steak and salad dressings. Market stalls in this region offer jars of truffle added to pesto, oils, mushroom pate, olive tapenade and even honey. We were offered so many different things to try that we actually had to say ‘stop, I’ve had too much truffle!’ We headed off in search of wine.

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Truffles, olive oil and honey stalls – Rovinj market

Cevapici – These seasoned minced meat sausages are extremely common across Croatia. Often grilled or pan fried they come served with raw onions and ajvar – a fiery red paste of peppers, chilli, aubergines and garlic.

  • Recommend: Bistro Odisej, Arsenalska 7, Pula – roadside grill house specialising in meat served in lepinja flat bread at amazingly low prices.
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Cevapici (Orfej, Kandlerova Ulica, Pula)

Skampi buzzara - This is the classic Croatian seafood stew, most commonly served with sauteed shell-on langoustines. This speciality combines garlic, olive oil, local white Malvasia wine, bread crumbs and parsley. The Istrian twist is that they don’t always include the tomatoes. It’s messy, finger-licking food not suitable for white shirts or first dates. It is often served with polenta or pasta, or sometimes just a basket of fresh bread to mop up the juices.

  • Recommend: Konoba Ferala, Boraca 11, Fazana, Pula – lovely harbourside restuarant serving great fresh seafood, famous local salted anchovies and octopus with polenta
  • Konoba Vasianum, Riva 7, Fazana, Pula – amazing seafood pasta dishes, large outdoor seating area right on the seafront.
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Skampi buzzara and spaghetti (Konoba Vasianum)

Blitva with grilled fish - You will find blitva on probably every restaurant menu, it is a very comforting side dish of swiss chard and potatoes, cooked with a generous amount of olive oil and garlic. It pairs well with grilled fish, often cooked on an open fire.

  • Recommend: Konoba Da Baston, Svalba 3, Rovinj – small restaurant tucked away between the fish and vegetable markets with a large open fireplace grilling freshly caught fish.
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Blitva and grilled fish (Konoba Da Baston)

…and finally pizza - very popular throughout the coastal areas of Croatia.

  • Recommend: Pizzeria Jupiter, Castropola 42, Pula – best pizza place in town with roof top open air terrace. The jumbo size pizza easily feeds two with enough to take home for breakfast!
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Let’s go 50/50 – Istrian prsut and black truffle jumbo pizza (Jupiter)

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Wild garlic pesto

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All the ingredients for wild garlic pesto

I was so excited when I spotted wild garlic for sale (£1 each) at the Sunday Farmers Market this weekend – so of course had to buy two bunches. I love supporting local shops and markets but I felt a bit guilty having just returned from Croatia, where foraging is an everyday pastime. Apparently wild garlic can be found in Highams Park and I’m guessing a few other green places in the Stow – maybe next year I’ll go foraging for my own wild garlic.

I used both bunches of wild garlic in this pesto, imitating a version I bought from Cannon & Cannon, an artisan British charcuterie and cheese shop in Brixton, a couple of weeks ago. It works great on toasted ciabatta for bruschetta or garlic bread, is lovely stirred through pasta, or use to flavour meat, roast vegetables and risottos.

You need:

2 bunches of wild garlic, washed
60g Parmesan cheese
35g Pinenuts
100g Rapeseed oil
100g Olive oil
Juice of half a lemon
Salt and pepper

Method:

Grate the parmesan using a food processor. Change to the mix/chop setting, add all the rest of the ingredients except the oils and blitz until smooth. Slowly add the oils to the mix and stir through until you have a smooth consistency you are happy with. Spoon into a jar and keep in the fridge for up to two weeks.  Enjoy, but don’t kiss anyone unless they came for dinner!

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Wild garlic pesto sauce

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It’s not all about food – Pula Ampitheatre

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Pula Arena – Roman architecture on a massive scale!

Occasionally we do have some interests other than food and wine – although this is rare. Usual service will resume soon with a post on Istrian truffles but we couldn’t resist writing about the best preserved ancient monument in Croatia as it is  just down the road from our apartment. It was constructed between 27 BC – 68 AD and is one of only six of the largest surviving Roman arenas in the world.

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View out to sea and the Brijoni Islands, Pula

The arena is smack bang on the seafront, dominating the harbour and sky line of the tiny city of Pula. This is like going to see the Colosseum in Rome – but there are less tour groups, it’s  probably cheaper to get in, and a cappuccino in Croatia is less than £2 rather than the 15 Euro a friend was charged in Italy!

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How small are those people?

The arena is used as an venue for international music concerts instead of feeding martyrs to the lions these days. However, when you step inside it is still reminiscent of a scene out of the film, Gladiator, it has such an overwhelming sense of history and an ‘OMG it is enormous-moment’. Now, enough of all this culture, back to the food and wine…

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It was a hot walk up to the top!

  • Pula (magdalenaheidelberg.wordpress.com)
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Wild asparagus season

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Wild asparagus bunches

It has been such a long, cold, snowy winter in the Stow. We’ve been excitedly waiting for Spring to arrive with it’s purple sprouting brocolli, spring lamb, champagne rhubarb and of course asparagus. The Walthamstowfoodies needed a sunny break so we’ve headed to Pula in the Istrian region of Croatia.

Here it is asparagus season too, the market is flooded with bunches of skinny wild asparagus as locals go to the hills, foraging for the long stalks to make amazing dishes. In Istria traditionally it is included in an omlette-style asparagus fritaja or combined with Istrian fuzi pasta and truffles or a risotto.

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Wild asparagus on the market in Pula, Croatia

The wild asparagus has a more pronounced, bitter flavour than its cultivated cousin. It would work well with a strong flavoured goat or sheep cheese.

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Washed and ready to go…

Today we just went for a simple breakfast option, we cooked a bunch of fresh asparagus and served it with hard boiled eggs, a little bit of vinegar and good olive oil and a slice of fresh soda bread. Perfect!

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Simple but delicious

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Homemade sunblush tomatoes

Cherry tomatoes

Cheery cherry tomatoes

Our usual Saturday walk down Walthamstow Market seemed to take forever this week with all the disruption from Thames Water digging up the road. But there were lots of bargains on offer, strawberries are flooding in at 2 or 3 punnets for a pound, the boxes of honey mangos are arriving – £5 at the moment, and big bags of oranges were only £2 – cheaper than cartons of juice from the supermarkets.

But we were after tomatoes – and we got 4 punnets of ripe cherry tomatoes for £1 – you won’t find a deal like that in Sainsburys! I wanted to make sunblush tomatoes – the delectable Italian semi-dried tomatoes. This is such a simple recipe that I’m almost embarrassed to share it, except that they are so tasty and versatile that it would be a shame if you didn’t try them. Great added to rissotto, pasta sauces, salads and soups.

You need:

500g cherry tomatoes
2 tablespoons olive oil
2-3 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp sea salt
1/2 tsp sugar

Method:

Preheat the oven to it’s lowest temperature setting. Remove the stems from the tomatoes and cut them in half along across the middle. Place cut side up in a single layer on a baking tray. Sprinkle with the salt, oregano and sugar. Drizzle over the olive oil and pop them into the oven.

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Baking the sunblush tomatoes

Cook for 3 hours, until the tomatoes are soft and fragrant.  Once they’ve cooled, store in a jar in the fridge covered in olive oil. They will stay fresh for at least 2 weeks, but they taste so good they may not last that long!

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Jar of homemade sunblush tomatoes

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Multi-seed sourdough bread – a labour of love

Multi-seed sourdough bread

Multi-seed sourdough bread

I’ve been practicing the ancient art of sourdough bread making, inspired by a day spent with the Hornbeam Bakers. I love bread making especially the kneading and playing with new flavours and techniques, but I was left confused by the mathematical science required for sourdough. It was like being back at school – at the back of the class, copying someone else’s answers. There’s no wonder that commercial quick active yeast is such an easy attractive solution.

But this just made me more determined to crack this mystical conundrum – how to take just flour and water and capture the wild yeast that’s in the air all around us, and somehow turn this into a wonderful loaf.

Sourdough bread making is a real slow food mission – there’s hours of ‘do a bit, wait a while, do a bit more and wait some more’. But this long time rising and fermenting breaks down the gluten and enzymes making better tasting bread, with a longer shelf-life and better digestibility.

I left the hornbeam bread making day with a jar of sourdough starter which I’ve been using and feeding ever since. You can beg, borrow or buy a starter off the internet or patiently develop your own following instructions on the web. This is a labour of love and determination.

Sourdough starter

Sourdough starter

So for this multi-seed sourdough bread, you need:

180g Sourdough starter
200g Mixed seeds (sesame, flax, poppy, pumpkin, sunflower etc)
340g Warm water
450g Flour (multi-grain or wholemeal)
10g Ground sea salt

Method:

Soak the seeds in 200g of warm water for 10 minutes. In a large bowl mix the starter with the remaining 140g of warm water, then add the seeds and water they’ve been soaking in.

Next stir in the flour and salt. At this point it will be a very sticky mixture. Leave it to rest and absorb the flour for about 10-20 minutes. With all the stages of this bread making it’s about fitting it around your day rather than the other way around, the timings are a guide and the slower the process the better the bread.

Seedy sourdough mixture

Seedy sourdough mixture in a Turkish dough bowl

After it’s rested, knead the dough in the bowl for just 2 minutes, then leave it (and you) to rest for 10-30 minutes. Repeat this 3 times. Then cover and leave to rise somewhere warm for 1 hour. You can cover the bowl with a damp tea towel, plastic bag, cling film or even a disposable shower cap, but I have found a plastic dough bowl with a lid which I bought from the Turkish shop near Bakers Arms, E17 for about £4 works really well.

An hour later, it won’t have risen very much so don’t be disappointed. Knock back the dough, then gently shape it, dust in cornflour and tip into a proving basket (again a large £1 plastic colander works great), cover and leave to rise for 4 hours. I left my latest loaf overnight and it seems to have been fine.

Ready to rise in plastic proving basket

Dough ready to rise overnight in plastic proving ‘basket’

Finally it’s time to bake – gently turn the dough onto a preheated baking tray, slash the top to let the steam escape, and slide quickly into a hot oven.

Slash the top and slide quickly into the oven

Slash the top and slide quickly into a hot oven

Bake at 200C for 15 minutes, then turn and bake for another 15 minutes. To check it’s cooked turn the loaf over and knock on the base to check for a hollow sound, leave it to cool before slicing. It makes great toast and lasts about a week – but we’ll scoff it all before then – delicious!

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Amazing hot salt beef brunch

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Copperfield Cafe

We woke up super-early this morning – no sunday lie-in for us! By 8am a pork shoulder was dressed and having a lovely tanning session in the slow cooker, the coffee beans were ground and an 8-cup cafetiere was put into action, and sour dough starter was developing nicely. So we then decided to walk in the lovely sunshine t0 the gym for a swim.

You probably know the feeling at 11am when you aren’t sure whether to skip breakfast and wait for lunch or have breakfast and a much later lunch, well frankly I was starving and when the other foodie suggest an old time East End cafe I wasn’t impressed. I love cafes but I’m very fussy when it comes to breakfast and especially picky when it comes to an E17 traditional breakfast. After a bit of pursuasion (along the lines of … you’re just grumpy when you’ve not been fed) I agreed to the Copperfield Cafe on the High Street as we were on our way to the Farmers Market.

I was intrigued to see that they have salt beef as a special on the menu, so I went for the hot salt beef salad as I knew the pork was happy basking at home for a few more hours.

Fantastic hot salt beef salad

Fantastic hot salt beef salad

What arrived was a plate of salad and lashings of salt beef which at £5.50 was really good value. Every salad ingredient was on the plate – sweetcorn, lettuce, red cabbage, sweet gerkins, lemon, tomatoes, cucumber, olives. This was paradise for me a carb-free breakfast – and hey no cheap white bread! The salt beef was moist and tasted great with mustard.

The other foodie stuck to poached eggs on brown toast – but I think we’ll both be back for the salt beef in the near future. They also do the standard fry ups, Turkish breakfast and homemade pies and with 5 out of a 5 in their food hygiene standard scores – another reason to support the E17 local cafes.

Copperfield Cafe, 212 High Street, Walthamstow, E17 7JH

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High heels and muddy boots welcome!

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